Long story short– I am a big yard sale shopper….however lately I haven’t been going….sad, I know.
Many, many years ago I picked up a Featherweight. It got a little love at the first, but then I kind of just set it aside until I was reminded that I have one and need to use it at sewing retreats or days with friends.
I got it out, tinkered for a bit and it’s running very nicely now. However– My carry box for my featherweight is a little worn. In fact.
The handle is a little on the ‘iffy’ side.
Here’s a quick look at it~
It works and I’m sure it would be just fine, but I thought for the fun of it- let’s make a carry case for the carry box!
Really though- I don’t want to be walking around and all of a sudden the box just drop. That’s not the best scenario. I had looked a little bit and thought about making just straps, but the bag made more sense in the end.
It is short enough on the top that the machine box never has to leave the bag. It can easily open while still in the bag so you just set it where you need it, open it up and remove the sewing machine from inside. Simple enough.
When done, the machine box is loaded again and stored away– still in the bag. I’m thinking though that my machine box needs a little cleaning before it goes into the bag!
charm pack 5″ X 5″ (40 squares)
1 package of fusible fleece
lining fabric: 1– 14″ X 9″ & 1– 12″ X 47″
Handle strapping: 2– 4″ X 42″
Carry Case Tutorial for your Featherweight~
9 Patch Quilt Block Instructions: (full tutorial here)
1) Sew 9- 5″ squares together to make a standard nine patch quilt block
2) Cut the now quilt block down the center -top to bottom, and side by side
3) Repeat so you have 4 — 9 patch quilt blocks
Part of the beauty of the quilt block is the placement of the pieces once you give them a cut. There really are a lot of options here and if you play around with them, you will come up with the one you like the best. Here are a few different layouts that I came up with using my blocks.
4) Sew the 4 blocks side by side in a long strip — trim to 12″ X 48″ (you’ll use this extra piece on the base of the bag)
5) Layer the strip on a piece of fusible fleece -follow the instructions on package and fuse the wrong side
6) Quilt how you’d like- I did a few diagonal of quilting, kept it simple
7) Trim the piece to 12″ X 47″
8) Using the cutoff square from the previous steps, sew the extra 5″ squares and additional fabric around it until it measures 9″ X 14″
9) Layer the base fabric with a piece of fusible fleece -follow the instructions on package and fuse the wrong side
10) Quilt a few lines to secure the layers – trim if needed
1- Measure and mark from each end 8″ and 15″
2- Place the strap on the right side of the bag at these markings- pin in place and stitch to secure
*DO NOT sew all the way to the edge at the top of the bag– you will need the straps loose here for the lining
11) Sew the ends of the long strip together, so it’s a circle
12) Place the seam in the center of one small side of the base- then pin the circle (sides) to the base piece (the piece below isn’t the correct shape of base, but shows you the process of stitching the base to the sides)
13) Stitch 1/4″ to 1/2″ seam
1) Sew the ends of the lining together to make a circle – same process as the previous steps
2) Pin the circle to the base fabric
3) Stitch 1/4″ to 1/2″ seam– leaving a 4″ opening on one long side for turning
4) Turn the bag WRONG sides out
5) Place the outside of the bag inside the lining– right sides should be facing
6) Pin along the top edge of the bag, lining up the side seams
7) Stitch along the top edge 1/4″ to 1/2″ seam– because your straps aren’t sewn to the top edge, you will need to fold those down and make sure they don’t get caught in this seam
8) Pull the bag through the opening on the base so right sides are facing out and the lining is tucked inside the bag properly
*Check all your seams right now — if you have anything that isn’t correctly sewn, fix it now before closing it up
9) Stitch the opening closed
10) Iron the top edge of the bag so the seam is at the top
11) Stitch 1/4″ from the edge for a finishing seam- this can be sewn on top of the handles or not, won’t matter
Optional~ place a piece of plastic or cardboard along the bottom of the bag for extra support